Beyond Sustainability: How restaurants can contribute to a regenerative future through wine
How restaurants are turning their wine lists into a powerful storytelling tool for regenerative farming and sustainable viticulture.
When we think of sustainability and regeneration in restaurants, the usual themes come up first: circular kitchens, local sourcing, honouring heritage, team or community empowerment, and transformational guest experiences. These are both powerful and very necessary.
In addition to these relevant topics, there’s another creative potential that often goes unnoticed. One where restaurants become ambassadors of ecological and cultural regeneration, using every part of the guest experience, including wine. The selection of and the storytelling around the wines at the restaurant can be a way to invite curiosity and care for the living systems that sustain us.
You could say that wine is the perfect medium for this. It is not only a drink but a reflection of land, climate, people, and time. In a world grappling with climate change, soil degradation, and loss of biodiversity, how we choose and frame wine can broaden our guests’ understanding of where their food and drink come from, and what it means to care for place and planet.
Where wine becomes a gateway to regeneration
During a recent trip to South Africa we visited two restaurants where this is no longer abstract: La Colombe in Cape Town and Wolfgat in Paternoster. The idea of wine serving as a reminder or inspiration for regenerative futures was already real and in action in how the restaurants’ respective wine programs were curated.
At Wolfgat, Chef Kobus van der Merwe himself oversees selecting special wines that reflect his vision for the future. All bottles are either natural, biodynamic, or regenerative, and come with a unique backstory. While the food menu is already an experience in itself, choosing the wine pairing takes you on another journey completely, where soil life and the passing of time become part of the conversation.
At La Colombe, Michelle Erasmus, the Head Sommelier, known for her 'wine first' experience” and curates a brilliant wine selection that goes beyond taste into the realm of storytelling. With several international qualifications and recognition Michelle and her team not only emphasize the link between food and wine, but also how wine is a byproduct of larger ecosystems in harmony. Among the three pairing options offered at La Colombe, the boutique pairing has been affectionately called by guests “wines of the future,” and for a reason. Diners are invited to taste terroir with intention and to reflect on what it means for wine to be produced with care.
What Are Biodynamic & Regenerative Wines?
There are many winemakers who make storytelling like Wolfgat’s and La Colombe’s possible. But before diving into vineyard stories, we must broaden our understanding of biodynamic and regenerative viticulture beyond conventional organic farming.
Biodynamic farming, which is based on principles introduced by Rudolph Steiner that see the vineyard as a living and interconnected organism, integrates ecological practices with a holistic worldview. Soil, plants, animals, and humans are conceived as part of the same system.
Regenerative agriculture shares this holistic aim but places an even stronger emphasis on restoring and enhancing ecosystems, building soil health, increasing biodiversity, and strengthening resilience of local communities that are part of the living system.
For winemaking, this means vineyards that not only avoid harm but actively improve the land and communities they inhabit. Restaurants that intentionally bring these wines into their tasting experiences and tell those stories from the ground, play an important part in bringing regeneration and future possibility into guests’ awareness. For more.
Stories from the vineyards: Reyneke & Longridge
There are many incredible winemakers following biodynamic and regenerative principles in South Africa, way more than we could visit on one trip. But following Michelles’ recommendations, we were able to visit two South African producers that left a deep impression: Reyneke Wines and Longridge Wine Estate.
Reyneke Wines: Philosophy meets soil
At Reyneke, biodynamics are foundational to everything they do. Situated in the Polkadraai Hills of Stellenbosch, Reyneke was the first vineyard in South Africa to be certified biodynamic by Demeter International, a landmark achievement that reflects deep commitment to ecological stewardship.
Owner and viticulturist Johan Reyneke is a renowned figure when it comes to biodynamic wines in the country. A philosophy student turned farmer, Johan’s early experiences working alongside seasonal vineyard workers exposed him to inequalities and ecological harm in conventional farming. He understood that “you can’t make beautiful from ugly”, and that with “knowledge comes responsibility”, something that has become the ethical foundation and lifelong commitment to farming that honours both people and planet.
Winemaker Barbara Melck who in her words “had to join” Reyneke Wines when she met Johan during her studies, captured the vision beautifully for us: “Our biggest goal is to reflect where the grapes come from in the most honest way… everything starts and ends with the grapes.” All their wines, from Chenin Blanc to Syrah, are expressions of place and balance, intimately tied to the health of the soil and the rhythms of nature.
Beyond the science, Reyneke’s story is social as well as ecological, seeking to build community support and fair labour conditions with responsible, long-term land stewardship. Biodiversity is another central consideration, and the estate integrates indigenous flora and natural pest management to ensure that the vineyard thrives as an ecosystem rather than being monoculture. For Johan, who continually seeks to openly collaborate and share knowledge, healthy wine starts with healthy land, and healthy land means making room for everything that lives on it.
Longridge Wine Estate: Soil first, wine naturally
Nestled at the foot of the Helderberg Mountains, Longridge is another vineyard where biodynamic principles shape every decision. Their commitment to organic and biodynamic viticulture means vines, herbs, and vegetables grow without chemical pesticides, herbicides, or fertilizers, and fermentation is minimal-intervention, allowing the land to express itself through the wine. Around 2011, Longridge Wine Estate began a gradual transition from conventional farming to organic and then biodynamic practices. This shift was driven by a desire to restore soil health, work in harmony and not against natural systems, and craft wines that authentically express the terroir. According to winemaker Jasper Raats, Longridge wants to “make wines that are as healthy as possible to drink and of a world-class standard.” With that in mind they accepted the “transition loss” of about three years.
What made the biggest impression on us at Longridge was how this respect for nature translated into wines that are both delicious and narrative. Their portfolio that includes Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Pinotage, and Merlot, to name a few, reflects a deeply nurtured terroir that doesn’t feel one bit engineered.
What this means for restaurants
So, what does this all mean for restaurants seeking to contribute to a regenerative future?
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Expand the narrative
Regenerative wine lists can have an impact far beyond making a restaurant appear more responsible. They can truly change how guests perceive food- and land systems, which means that the restaurant has an important role as an expander. -
Use wine as a storytelling tool for good
Pairing regenerative wines with dishes with local ingredients invites guests into deeper reflection and connection to place on all levels. It’s a creative interpretation of the landscape, movement, and meaning behind every sip and bite. -
Build market value for care
We know that by spotlighting producers who invest in ecological and social regeneration, restaurants help create markets that reward care rather than extraction. -
Transform the experience
Hospitality becomes co-creative. Dining becomes an opportunity for learning, curiosity, and of course also connection.
Final Thought
There are many brilliant winemakers around the world working with regenerative and biodynamic principles, and the two we visited are just the beginning.
When restaurants like Wolfgat and La Colombe curate with intention, they invite us to taste not only flavour, but future possibility. That is a creative act, and one of the most meaningful roles a restaurant can play in creating a more regenerative world.
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